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I have a 2003 WJ Limited 4.7 HO with 75,000 miles, bone stock right now (except de-badged). Here's a pic:
This is my daily driver and going to be more of an expedition rig than a rock crawler. I've got an XJ sitting at 4.5" right now that grew piece-by-piece and started as a budget boost... I wanted to do the WJ different and get good components right from day one.
I just ordered most everything for Phase 1 below. I'd like some feedback as to if I missed anything, and there are a couple questions at the end. Thanks!
------ Phase 1 ------
Clayton front & rear long-arms (bare bones kit) (from kolak)
Teraflex front & rear springs 4.5" springs (sit more like ~ 4.75" I'm told)(from kolak)
Teraflex front & rear bump-stop extensions (from kolak)
4 Rubicon Express Monotube shocks (from kolak)
JKS front adjustable trackbar (from kolak)
JKS heavy duty tierod (from kolak)
(plus 2 new ends from dealer to replace worn ones and allow old ones to become spares)
JKS front swaybar quick disconnects (from kolak)
Rear extended length sway-bar links (from IRO)
Tenneco Heavy Duty Steering Stabilizer (from IRO)
JKS SuperNerfs (from kolak)
Gas tank skid (came with 1/8th inch factory skid, good FOR NOW)
Have someone local custom make a transfercase skid / belly pan (probably http://www.hunteroffroad.com) I've got conficting reports as to whether the IRO works with clayton's kit without mod, and I'd rather have a nice full-belly skid similiar to what I have on my XJ...
Mopar front tow hook kit, black #82207552 (from dealer)
Rear towpoint - jeep came with towing package and I have one of these...
Exhaust (mainly from kolak, have someone local weld up everything):
Section of 3" mid pipe, Magnaflow high flow 3" converter, Flowmaster 50 Delta Flow muffler (3" center inlet/offset outlet), 3" turn-down tip
Wheels/Tires - to be decided this week. Will probably go with 33x11ish on 16's, or maybe keep the stock 17's and get spacers to save some money for right now.
Mine being and 03 has a double-cardan style front shaft already, so shouldn't need to change that right now.
1 - Do I need a drop pitman arm & what size drop? 1"?
2 - Does anyone make a over-the-knuckle kit like IRO's, BUT that uses TRE's? I feel like the heim's would increase the chance of death-wobble and/or loose steering feeling... am I right on that?
3 - Do I need longer brake lines?
4 - What am I forgetting?
------ Phase 2 (at least another year or more away) ------
Swap in a 242HD and new rear DS
New gearing & something with axles... if I can find an aussie for the rear I may keep it and just truss the axles and ox lock the front perhaps... or who knows... maybe new JK axles all around one day
Custom rack and bumpers / tire carrier
35's?
Also wanted to say that Nick and Kolak Performance (kolak@aol.com) gave me some great deals and I definately recomend him.
And thanks to all the information on Mall Crawlin that I read throught before making most of these decisions... now if it doens't work out so well I'll edit this and curse all your names instead!
------------------------- CURRENT ----------------------------------
35's, 6", JK Rubicon Dana 44's with OEM electric lockers, 5:13 gears, RCV front/Superior Alloy rear axles
Last edited by theksmith; 08-15-2013 at 07:25 AM.
HOLY SHIT!!! Go big or go home...
Did you do that all at once or have you been compiling those parts?
As for the IRO flip I have it and havent lost any steering & i also dont have any Death Wobble & I'm on short arms. But if you dont want to do that you can order the inserts from IRO and flip the existing Tierod & Draglink. All it requires is for you to drill out the knuckles and weld in the insirts. Also need to get a RHD lower Draglink End.
You will obtain minor bumpsteer from flipping the bars as it seperates the Draglink & Trackbar. But as its minor and for me livable as it allows for protected steering. Take a look at my build thread for pix.
Oh and welcome to MC.
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12701
Page 1. there are some close up shots of it.
Thanks for the welcome! I've had the supernerfs sitting in the damn garage for a month, then decided to take the plunge and just ordered everything else except the dealer parts and wheels/tires. I'd rather pay intrest on the credit card and enjoy the parts than wait till I can piece all that together with cash.... complete oposite of how I did my XJ!
Nice dub, I dig this shot: http://s133.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=IMG00054.jpg
I would get bump stops from IRO, they will make whatever length you want, since you're lifting 4.5" might as well get bump stops that are 4.5" longer.
The ones Kolak sells are way too short, unless he is selling different ones, not the tera's.
When you gonna start installing some of those shiny parts? I want more pics!
well hopefully everything comes in a week or so, though i hear that clayton makes his shit in batches and if he's out then i might have to wait a couple weeks
well crap, i'm being indecisive and i need some opinions..
i had planned to go with 33's, and i know even with that size and only 4.5" lift that I'm going to need some serious trimming and/or bumpstops... but now i'm thinking about going ahead and doing 35's and just be done with it.... am i crazy, or can i make em fit with a 4.5" lift and serious trimming?
I would certainly recommend sticking with 33's (or less) at that height. Even at 4.5" you will need to trim substantially to fit a 33" tire. Especially true if it is loaded down for an expedition as you indicate in the thread title.
Unless Tera has changed their spring recipe from a few years back, you will net much closer to 4" from those springs than the 4.5/4.75 you mentioned.
Also, brake lines (front and rear) should be fine at that height as long as you remove some of the body mounts.
No drop pitman arm needed... and strongly discouraged.
You can pull of your old knuckles, drill them out and use spacers like those from goferit offroad to flip your steering. There is a good writeup by JohnBoulderCo in the FAQ section.
Search and you will find...
well i still haven't gotten any of my parts in yet, but i did just order some more
from a 2000 WJ - Front Dana 30 with ARB and 4.56 gears, and rear 44HD with Aussie and 4.56's, Powerslot rotors front and rear. He said he did master install kit when gears/lockers where done and that was only 10k miles ago: http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15207
Actually, I ran narrow 33's (285/75R16) on 4" of lift. Bumper needed ALOT of trimming, but with correct bump stops you could run 33's decently. As for the rear, with the sway bar connected I only had minor rubbing, not enough to chunk up the tires at all. I say if your willing to do some (atleast) minor fender trimming you can go for 33's at 4" of lift.
Just wanted to update the thread with what everyone's told me:
1 - Do I need a drop pitman arm & what size drop? 1"?
Answer: I now get that the steering isn't the inverted Y that is on most jeeps and therefore doesn't need a drop pitman arm - the draglink and track bar stay parallel after lifting unless you do a steering flip...
2 - Does anyone make a over-the-knuckle kit like IRO's, BUT that uses TRE's? I feel like the heim's would increase the chance of death-wobble and/or loose steering feeling... am I right on that?
Answer: I think the heims that IRO sells are probably the best quality available, but after reading alot of forums (including non-jeep, custom hot-rod type stuf), I don't think heims are a good choice for a daily driver. If this was primarily going to be an off-road jeep, I would go with the IRO flip kit in a heartbeat. I read the thread on here detailing how to flip steering with the goferit inserts and use stock TRE's, but this requires flipping the knuckle end of the drag link up as well, which could cause some bumpsteer. For now I'm just going to put the JKS tierod and Kevin's draglink to make everything much beefier, but leave them all in the stock locations. I am going to see about at least flipping the steering stabilizer to the top using some stuff from IRO.
3 - Do I need longer brake lines?
Answer: Everyone said NOPE
4 - What am I forgetting?
Answer: I'll let you know when it's half assembled on the garage floor
I was told today by an install shop that I won't pass emissions here in AZ with the tailpip exiting under the middle of the vehicle, so at some point I will have to have a someplace fab up a better answer to the exhaust, or more likely I'll just stick a piece of flexible pipe onto the end and route it out only when it's time to do emissions!
Last edited by theksmith; 03-08-2008 at 08:02 PM.
So did you down to 1 catylitic or do you still have the two smaller pre-cats?
I'm trying to figure out how I want to tackle my exhaust on my 4.7, but I'm not wanting to risk any check engine light/emissions issues.
this is worthless without pics. and i don't need any damn picture to say so.
Get started building already!
the build has been underway, but i decided to just keep my thread over on JF going instead of mainting this one (i know, i know).
so here's the build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=526660
and here's some pics:
nothing crazy yet till i get off my ass and put the rock rails on, and i still need to decide on a belly skid. i talked to clayton last week and he is going to have WJ production ones for sale this fall that are just like the ZJ ones... but i think i would rather have something custom done that really ties everything together better
Looks great man!
I hoped you would be puttin those axles to good use.
I'm not familiar with the WJ Clayton's setup, but how would you tie everything together better? The ZJ skid comes with a weld-on crossmember for the rear. So if the WJ is supposed to be like that, I'd think it would come with one, too. Which should stiffen everything up.
Nice rig, by the way!
thanks!
the wj is the same, you weld in a rear bar and then bolt a flat plate to that bar and to the trasmission mount crossmember...
i've seen some people on here make skids that are verry similiar to this one for an XJ: http://www.dpgoffroad.com/rock_attack.htm and i just prefer that design... i'm sure the clayton way is just as strong, just a preference
so haven't updated anything here in a long time, mostly keeping up the build thread over on JF... but i'm back on mallcrawlin to try and gather some information from the real-deal wheelers before i move from 4.5" to 6".
anway, just to update, these are probably the most recent few actual wheeling pics...
awesome ride. keep it up
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