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10-16-2009, 07:09 PM
Alright guys, I've been trying to figure out a way to retain rear discs and an ebrake with my 9" swap, so I'm not going the regular route that everyone goes with 1/2 ton calipers in the rear, and I've heard too many negatives about the eldorado calipers. I'm going to try to modify the D44a's old disc setup onto the 9", and possibly save the ABS tone rings also for the WJ's speedo if i get lucky. My plan is to redrill the WJ's brake backing plate to bolt in place of the old drum backing plate. So far I've only come up with a few issues:
1) The drum backing plate is 1/8" material, the WJ's is 5/16" thick. They sandwich between the housing flange and the axleshaft retaining plate, so just bolting the new 5/16" backing plate in place will give the axleshaft 3/16" of in-and-out motion. What would you guys do here? I was thinking I could grind (or get ground to ensure flatness) the wj backing plate down to the correct thickness, but having it only 1/8" kinda scares me.
I snugged the retaining plates up on both axles and measured the gaps while under slight tension. Interesting results, it seems like the WJ's wouldn't get tight before it clamped the backing plate, and the 9" seems like it would tension the hell out of the bearing before the backing plate and retaining plate met.
D44a (about 1/4", if anything maybe 1/32nd larger):
9" (almost 1/4", if anything mayber 1/32nd smaller):
2) When the axleshafts are bolted in place, the distance from wheel mount surface on the shaft to the flat surface of the housing flange surface is about 1/4" less on the 9", meaning I'm going to have to space the rotor out 1/4" from the mount surface on the shaft to get factory spacing. if I do this with a solid plate and make sure my studs are still long enough, is there anything wrong with it?
Last edited by AgitatedPancake; 10-16-2009 at 07:11 PM.
10-17-2009, 03:50 PM
I know you've already got the axle and stuff, but there are 9's out there out of 1976-79 Ford, Lincoln, Mercury. that have disk brakes, and 5x5 bolt pattern. I work for a parts store and did the foot work to finds out which ones. If you want, send me a pm I can send you all the models.
10-17-2009, 06:26 PM
I have the elderado calipers and they work fine. Stop my 35's w/o any issues. Pitch has the same setup and also endorsed them. I got mine from CCP on ebay for a great price.
If I were to do it again I would just get the weld on brackets, I went with TSM and while they work great its more of a pain in the ass to get setup and then you have to worry about all the bolts.
10-17-2009, 06:41 PM
Killer deal
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HOT-R...#ht_1856wt_859
New not rebuilt with all the brackets for the EBrake. I picked up some Lokar cables and boom goes the dynamite.
10-17-2009, 09:56 PM
Originally Posted by WJJEEPIN
what did you do for your e brake set up?
10-17-2009, 10:23 PM
the eldorado's have a built in ebrake
10-17-2009, 10:30 PM
yeah i know, i meant truck side, i have them on my 9 and there doesn't seem to be enough travel in the stock parking brake to have them so they don't rub but also so they fully engage
10-17-2009, 10:44 PM
Yup they were too short. I bought Lokar cables from Jegs. I am in the process of hooking them up. I am trying to integrate the factory seals so it will be relatively water proof.
10-18-2009, 07:48 PM
Dove in today, drilled out the backing plates to fit the housings. Next in line, figure/work out a spacer for the bearing retainer. I'm going to use a pair of old rear rotors to make spacers out of to have the correct brake backspacing. I'm going to cut the wheel mount face off, its 1/4" thick and will make up my 1/4" spacing difference perfectly.
10-20-2009, 11:21 PM
Looking good. It will be cool to see it all working.
Will you drill out the rotor to match the 5x5.5 or the axle flange to match the 5x5?
It was adding up by my math all too fast, I know your not too far from me but I couldnt find the right shop to do it for me for a decent price down on the peninsula.
10-20-2009, 11:54 PM
Im going to redrill the axle flange for 5x5, i have some of my old front rotors that are drilled for both, so i can bolt it to the shaft using the 5x5 and then drill the 5x5 myself. I had someone do all the work for me the first time, butnow i never have to again. I am happy though, i'm going to be able to convert to 5x5.5 very easily in the future if i ever wish to, my front already has the holes in the rotor and hub, and the rear already has them in the axle flange, drilling the rear rotors will be the only additional step needed.
I'm planning to weld the old holes in on my backing plate, a few people expressed their concern with the hole overlap.
10-22-2009, 07:09 PM
*I'm going to keep this thread solely related to brakes, full 9" build info in my build thread*
So I'm not going to try to retain the ABS @ the axle shafts for speedo reading, going to come up with another solution. The axle tubes are a larger diameter and you cant squeeze the sensor in even if you cut the housing flange to fit.
I trimmed the housing flange to fit the backing plate oriented correctly, I had it flipped backwards in the earlier pics to check the bolt holes.
Here it is. I bolted the bearing retainer up as a guide as it fit perfectly in the bracket. trimmed up:
And where the cutting was needed:
10-22-2009, 10:43 PM
Yeah Welding is the only to do it on that flange. Man I need a garage, I really need to get back into welding, I feel so helpless whenever I need ish welded. Nice, looking good.
Which 9" do you have? Old or torrino ends?
10-24-2009, 10:31 AM
I have big bearing late style from what I can find. I don't know what all the different applications were though, sorry.
10-24-2009, 10:50 AM
http://www.thatmetalbox.com/9inchfox..._End_Chart.gif
10-24-2009, 11:29 AM
Nice, yeah that shows i have the big bearing new style.
10-25-2009, 12:34 AM
If I had to do it again I would search that style down. From my experience The Old style wasnt as favored in upgrades and aftermarket support.
11-03-2009, 07:58 PM
To keep up with this thread till the end, some of the same info that went into my build thread.
CRUNCH TIME. rollin out to fordyce this weekend so I better have this damn thing done.
Going to weld this little spacer to the backing plate, then hand file it until I have a consistent thickness all around.
And more work going into the rotor spacers, gotta pick up my brother in laws die grinder to clean up the inside area
Checklist:
Finish rotor spacers
Finish bearing spacer
Reshape shock mounts
Buy new rotors, pads, and ebrake pads
Redrill axleshafts to 5x5.
11-05-2009, 01:05 AM
Time to ask for some help from you guys, has me stumped. So i welded up that little spacer and ground/filed it to the right height, and tried to do a test assembly of the shaft, backing plate and retainer in the housing. Well I tried, and couldn't get the bearing retainer bolted all the way on. I can get like two of the studs through with nuts just BARELY started on them, and the axle is already tight in the housing as if its already being preloaded. Once that happened I threw on the nonmodified bearing retainer and sinched it down, it actually has the axleshaft tight in the housing.
This confuses the hell out of me because the difference in backing plate thickness was so obvious...I'm not sure what to do about it yet...
Stock plate installed, holding modified. I have the caliper bracket on backwards, don't mind that.
11-05-2009, 01:11 AM
would longer studs solve the problem?
11-05-2009, 01:14 AM
it wasnt just the problem of the studs, the bearing plate wasnt even getting close to the disk brake bracket, which it should sit flush against fully installed.
11-05-2009, 01:15 AM
any chance you can take a picture with the modified plate installed?
11-05-2009, 01:18 AM
well it "should" look exactly like the stock one does in the above pic, sitting flush clamped against the brake bracket, but its holding off of the surface by about 1/4"
11-05-2009, 01:34 AM
the raised edge points outwards right? if you place the plate on the axle end without any shaft does it sit properly. is it possible it was warped while welding?
11-05-2009, 02:06 AM
The raised edge that I welded on points inward, pushing the bearing further toward the inside of the axle.
I went out and disassembled again to check the bearing race, which is seated fully.
When I pulled it apart though I turned the caliper bracket around, and actually slid it down the shaft past the seal to the axle flange. It's a tight fit between the ID of the center of the brake bracket and OD of the seal (within I'd say a 16th or 32nd), and there was silicone on the outside of the seal. bolted it back and it actually went together...I don't know if something wasn't seating right and binding up or what, but no complaints here! I don't like getting thrown a curveball a day and a half before a trip.
Modified plate fully installed.
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