4.0 Stroker...Titan Engine Build.

[dirty]

http://www.titanengines.com/


I killed my 4-slo a couple weeks ago...looking to replace it with a stroker, anyways, while digging around the internet (thank you Al Gore!) I found these guys.

Called them just to get a feel for their level knowledge and was pretty pleased. Seems they actually know what they are talking about. I asked about what Cams they used and the first thing out of his mouth was, "Not Crane, lol." I asked how high of a compression ration could they set me up with just to be an ass, and I was pleased when he started talking me out of high compression strokers...as opposed to BSing me with 10:1 hype just to make a sale.

Anyways, I move a lot for my job, ergo, I am without a garage in my new house so rebuilding one myself, like last time, is out of the question so I'm looking into alternatives.

This company will ship me a complete longblock, to my door for ~$2,400 (not the advertised price on website, I called him). 3 year/36,000 mile warranty. Simply add distributer, H2O pump, injectors, pan and valve covers...done.

This seems very reasonable to me, seeing how I have no place..nor the time, to begin a rebuild right now. I can have this installed in a weekend...while drinking. Granted, it can be done cheaper if I put time into it...but for that price, I'd rather spend the week at work...I'd come out on top.

Titan 4.6 or 4.7 Jeep Stroker your choice.

· All Blocks, Cranks, Heads and Rods Thermal Cleaned and Inspected
· Cranks and Rods Stainless Shot Peened for Stress Relief
· Blocks are then Line Honed, Bored and Decked to set quench height
· Cranks are then Ground and the Snout Machined
· The Rods are Reconditioned and weight matched
· The Pistons are weight matched and fitted to the rods
· The Head receives a 5 Angle Valve Job and proper springs for the Cam Selected
· The Stroker is then assembled using High Quality Components, and tested on a simtest machine which allows oil pressure, compression, drag and valve adjustment to be checked
· The engines have a 3 year 36000 mile warranty and are sold exchange plus Actual Shipping Costs.
· Payment can be made with Paypal, Check, Money Order or Credit Card by Phone.
· Feel free to email or call 1-888-477-8006 with any questions.

Thoughts...

[Goosed76]

$2,400 for a stroker? Whats the quality of the parts? Is the crank a factory 4.2L crank w/ factory rods? new parts? forged? seems cheap, my brother just got a reman'd long block for $1200(minus core charge of $400) but I've been picking around at Hesco's crate motors, and they are just a hair more(read= alot) I'd need a rundown of parts before I'd commit- crank, rods, pistins, coatings, rings, valves, rockers, push rods, what cam they really use(not just the one they don't) and profile, etc. At least they know the other stuff about compression and cams- just keep hearing that old saying in the back of my head- 'you get what you pay for.' My brothers XJ 4.0L has the same warranty, is half the price, and does alright with intake, header, bored TB, no cat, 33's w/ 4:56's. I'd shake em down for a parts list, personally. Thats just my 2 cents...

[dirty]

All very good points...after talking with them again and digging through some other forums seems most people are happy with them...

It is a budget stroker using mostly re-maned parts, but all parts are checked out, balanced...etc. Same thing I would do...Hesco/Golen is just recockulously priced in my opinion (at least for a weekend toy that could get flopped at any time).

You can get a 4.6 or 4.7, .030 bore or .060 bore.

You can get 9.25:1 or 9.5:1 compression ratio.

You can get the 12 couterwieght crank...seems like the more you ask the more they will do for you.

He doesn't specify block years or head years...but does try to find similar years to your application. So, I take that as probably not a HO head..but at that price, who am I to bitch...can do later if I feel the need.

Dyno runs give them about 265hp 295 torque...little less for the 4.6 liter.

Doesn't specify parts, seems he has a local dealer and takes what is reasonable at time of the build. Again, not ideal, but I might do the same thing at home under a budget.

I'm honestly considering it...I guess I might as well be the gunea pig, lol, I don't have time to do a rebuild right now. As stated, this isn't a Hesco or a Golen engine...it's a budget stroker built with primarily factory remaned parts...sans Cam/Springs/Oil Pump/Rings etc...those are new.

With any engine other than the 4-slo, I wouldn't consider it...but hell, my 4-slo took years of brutal abuse/neglect and put up over 250k before she lost it...and all that is bad is a spun bearing. With a reputation like that...I have no issues with reman parts.


I have an e-mail out to them requesting a list of parts makers...


I was hoping someone here would have personal expieriance...you never know...this could be a huge mistake...or a gem of an engine manufacturer that simply hasn't properly marketed themselves.

Thoughts...

[Cue-Ball]

I have no personal exp. with them but have only heard good things about them.

I think that is a great price considering everything.

[dirty]

I have no personal exp. with them but have only heard good things about them.

I think that is a great price considering everything.

Same here. I have no personal exp., but from all the "dirt" I am able to gather on them..everyone seems pretty pleased with the engines...again...not Hesco uber performance level, but a damn good budget stroker.

There is one fellow on JU that thinks his is broke...but from reading his post about the issue I have concluded that he is either a hippie, a socialist, or a democrat...and therefore not to be trusted when it comes to facts over personal feelings.

2cents...

[Goosed76]

all is true, budget build is a lot different than a top shelf build, and for the thousands you're saving, why not? my 4.0Lis showing it's age, pretty sure in the lifters(common) and rear main(also common)- holds great oil pressure though, and doesn't smoke at all at 140K. Can't complain about the torque from these things, and the stroker is even better, don't need/want to do 120 MPH in a lifted jeep, just want some extra low end grunt when I need it, and the 4.0L is doing the job. Good luck man!!

[DJJordache]

I have no personal exp. with them but have only heard good things about them.

I think that is a great price considering everything.

x2, make sure to get a build list of EVERYTHING THAT WILL GO IN IT! you can make the stroker have the stock 8.8 compression ratio, you just need special pistons with a larger dish in them. do not get a high compression one, unless you want to run hightest gas in it all the time and still probably chase detonation issues, just ask dirk about that...

my brothers 4.7L is 8.8 comp, with custom ross racing pistons, crower cam and cam saver lifters, 99 intake, 68mm tb, ported polished head with 2.02, 1.60 valves, borla header custom modified for 3" collector and full 3" exhaust, etc. DO NOT GET A CRANE CAM.

[Cue-Ball]

x2, make sure to get a build list of EVERYTHING THAT WILL GO IN IT! you can make the stroker have the stock 8.8 compression ratio, you just need special pistons with a larger dish in them. do not get a high compression one, unless you want to run hightest gas in it all the time and still probably chase detonation issues, just ask dirk about that...

my brothers 4.7L is 8.8 comp, with custom ross racing pistons, crower cam and cam saver lifters, 99 intake, 68mm tb, ported polished head with 2.02, 1.60 valves, borla header custom modified for 3" collector and full 3" exhaust, etc. DO NOT GET A CRANE CAM.

Very true Jordan.

Mine is a 4.6 built with the Accurate Power kit and running like 9.5:1 + compression and it is a PITA. Even with 91 octane I still have some pinging issues that I have just never been able to resolve, it is better now that I only run Chevron (of course the most expensive fuel in town), but the pinging is better.

Something that would help me is if I brokedown and had the ECU reprogramed or did some Dyno tuning, but without all the EXACT specs on the engine I am leary about ordering an ECU program as I might have one of the specs wrong and then not get the most bang for my buck, and I have had ZERO time or $$$ to do dyno tuning (at about $100 an hour). One of these days I will get it worked out I am sure.

I agree keep the CR low or close to stock if possible.

Dirk

[BigDaveZJ]

I have concluded that he is either a hippie, a socialist, or a democrat...and therefore not to be trusted when it comes to facts over personal feelings.

QFT.

[dirty]

E-mail sent to Titan Wednesday @ 2:20pm CST, now waiting on reply.


@BigDave...I laughed as I wrote that, but there simply is no other possible explaination.

[dirty]

E-Mail answered on Thurday @ 11:00 am CST.


My e-mail to Titan...

...I understand that these utilize a majority of reconditioned parts, and at the price I was quoted, I have no problems with that. However, later on down the road I may add to or modify this motor and would like to have a better understanding of exactly what is in it, brand/part wise. If you could get me some specifics on the following that would be great...

I assume crank, rods, pistons, heads, and possibly parts of the valve train are reconditioed factory parts from various 4.2s and 4.0s..can you eleborate?

What brand/part number are the rings, cam, oil pump, timing chain, valve springs, lifters...etc, basically what is new and who makes it.

What is the lowest compression ratio I can get, I'd like to be below 9.5:1, around 9:1 ideally, is this possible? (I don't want to have to hack the electronics to aviod pinging)

Can I get the crank with 12 counterweights, I forgot which one it is?

Must I return my old long block as a core, I forgot to ask this yesteday?

I'm thinking I want the 4.6...but if the 4.7 can be made with lower compression, then that is the one I will go with. This will be going in a ~7.5 inch lifted '93 ZJ (Grand Cherokee) with an AW4 auto tranny, a 242 (for now) transfer case, 4.88 gears (both locked), on 35" tires. It will be recieving 24lb ford injectors and a bored out throttle body...other than that, it's ODB 1, so I'm hoping to not mess with the computer too much. I'm looking for low end grunt, a good idle, and reliability (well as much as possible), top speed isn't a real big concern as this guy isn't going to break any speed records soon. This machine is basically a weekend warrior, but does see some highway use. Attached is a picture...not that that really helps you, but just so you get the idea.

Titan's e-mail response...

What we do is to use a block and head casting that is correct for your Jeep, that way it's a direct fit. We grind a 258 crank and machine 258 rods for the build. We send the block and cylinder head though cleaning and into machining. The block gets bored, honed, decked and line honed. The cylinder head gets a 5 angle valve job using 360 Dodge Magnum valves. Stem height is set and spring height and coil bind set for the cam I choose for the Jeep it's installed in. We use Silvolite or Clevite Pistons, Hastings or Perfect Circle Rings, Melling Timing, Oil Pumps and Springs and Delphi Lifters. We can get the compression down to about 9.25 to 1 and I can use a cam to bleed off a little but I can't tell you that I can hit 9.1 to 1. We do sell the engines exchange, we need your core to build another. Thanks, Chuck

Turns out I was mistaken about the core...will have to look into pricing the shipping back to them on that. Shipping to me in KS from FL is around $200...hopefully I will get a similar rate on return. Hmmm...

Didn't get an answer on the crank counterwieghts..but in thier defense, I've never even seen a 258 crank so I could be full of it about that...

Didn't get an answer on the Cam, but again in the interest of full disclosure, he said to me over the phone that decision would be made when the order was placed.

Magnum valves..hmmm, I'm not sure how I feel about that...I guess a valve is a valve...but the rest seems good enough to me. I really hate making big decisions.

[DJJordache]

the magnum valves that they speak of are the same ones in my brothers stroker and are the 2.02 1.60 higher flow valves, they are easier to use than my LS1 valves b/c the stem diameter is the same as stock on the magnum valves.
it's strange that they said they can get lower compression than 9.25:1.... but they probably don't want to fool with getting custom pistons, which will drive up the price if they normally use off the shelf pistons.

if you do decide to go with them make sure you get a build sheet on the engine that is down to the details of the bearing thicknesses (for future reference) if they are standard or what size from standard thickness bearings.

the HP and TQ numbers are lower that I would have thought they would quote for a "built" 4.7 but I guess not everyone wants to pay to play

and be glad you have the AW4, you lucky bastid!

[xtremzj]

dosent seem like a bad deal at all, jeeze i payed almost 4k for mine when done

[dirty]

dosent seem like a bad deal at all, jeeze i payed almost 4k for mine when done

Yea...well we will see, it's either the deal of the year or the screwing of the decade, lol.

@DJJordache, thanks for clueing me in on the magnum valves...I had no idea. As to thier HP & Torque claims, they use a standard head and a reasonable cam from what I gathered from my phone conversations with them. I think some of the higher numbers you see coming out of some companies stroker claims are from uber high compression engines...ie 10:1 compression..which with a good HO head would probably make those numbers...but might also be a real pain at the pump if you catch my drift. I can tolerate mid-grade, but premium in my old shitty Heep ain't gonna happen, lol.

At the end of the day, I'd rather have them shoot me a realistic number as opposed to some hyped up sales jibberish.

At this point I'm all but sold...only thing I have to discuss is the core charge...or returning the core charge. Thier freight to me was very reasonable, FL to KS for $200...I can handle that, but if it cost me $500 bucks to send back the core, then I might have reservations. Hell, depending on the core charge I might just keep it, all thats wrong is a spun bearing (I think). Come to think of it, I dunno what the core charge is at this point...looks like I'll be back on the horn with them.

At any rate, given my current temporary housing situation (no garage) this is shaping up to be my best bet on a new motor...that is better than stock. I can bum one of my "boyz" garages for a week or two, but thier wives would have my ass if I parked that bastid in there for the month or two it would take me to rebuild it myself.

So I'll be the gunea pig with this company, stay tuned if you are in the market for a stroker later this year...I'll do my best to report back on successes or failures. Wish me luck...

(Any-one got the a hook-up on 24lb injectors & a bored trottle body? )

[DJJordache]

i'll have to look around where we got the 24lb FMS injectors (don't have link on work computer), but the easiest way to get a bored TB is to take out the taper at the bottom to allow 60mm straight through. Technically 60mm (or ebay bored 62mm) should be fine for those HP #'s. but on our higher hp tq 4.7L we used a TB from a jeep/dodge 4.7L v8 that is 68mm and adapted it to fit the jeep intake and sensors

[dirty]

i'll have to look around where we got the 24lb FMS injectors (don't have link on work computer), but the easiest way to get a bored TB is to take out the taper at the bottom to allow 60mm straight through. Technically 60mm (or ebay bored 62mm) should be fine for those HP #'s. but on our higher hp tq 4.7L we used a TB from a jeep/dodge 4.7L v8 that is 68mm and adapted it to fit the jeep intake and sensors

I found a place on line with the injectors..little on the high side for new ones...I might deflower some poor Mustang in a junkyard to save some cash in the beggining. All this little stuff is starting to add up though....

Injectors, throttle body(optional), waterpump, harmonic balancer, motor mounts(mine are beat), gaskets, new ignition components, and other such BS. Whatever you think a new motor will cost...add 20% and you might get it right.

Tell me more about thie 68mm TB...I'm curious, little sensor ohm modification and an adapter plate?

Thanks man, you are very helpfull..I appreciate it.

[DJJordache]

no problem!
I found the link to where we got our injectors:
http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsJEEP.asp

as for the 68mm tb here is some info on my brothers 4.7L in n XJ
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=698310
we had to do some extra electrical work since his is a renix electrical and nonHO. I believe on a HO engine the IAC and TPS will just bolt on I also made an adapter plate from plate aluminum to bridge the gap of the 4 bolt mount 4.0L to the 3 hole mount of this tb, and made my own gasket from gasket material.

we also used a custom 4" airhat (not in the pictures to keep air volume of at least 3" into the TB" but I just checked and the seller is no lonnger on ebay..... I'll have to see if I can find the info on the airhat.....


here is how to bore the stock TB:
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoTBboring.htm

[dirty]

Sent Titan a follow up e-mail inquiring about the core charge and what Cam he was going to use since he didn't specify last time.

Response #2 from Titan (less than 24hrs later..I like that)

The core charge is $350.00 and is refunded when we recieve your core (as long as it doesn't have a window in the block). Shipping is about $190.00 to return the core. If you want to keep the core you can pay the shipping one way and the core. The stroker will have a sheet with sizes in the shipping paper work. The cam will either be a Clevite or a Comp and since your wanting as low compression as possibile I will most likley choose the Comp Cam, it will bleed a little more compression off.

Thanks, Chuck

I'm sold...will hopefully be ordering next week...still a couple bucks short this week.

[BigDaveZJ]

Moving this to the drivetrain tech forum since this seems to be a pretty good tech thread for strokers, and not really within the scope of the "Repair Shop" concept.

[Cue-Ball]

Good call Dave.

From the sounds of this, Titan seems to be on the ball. I almost wish I had not jumped so quickly on the stroker I have, but it was one of those deals at the time I could not pass up.

One day (when I hit the lotto) I will build (actually) have Hesco build me a Bling Bling 4.7-4.9 stoker with all the bells and whistles, but who the hell knows when that might be.

Once your stoker is broken in be sure to hit me up for some Amsoil to run in that thing, you want to make sure and run the best in a stroker that's for sure

[dirty]

Moving this to the drivetrain tech forum since this seems to be a pretty good tech thread for strokers, and not really within the scope of the "Repair Shop" concept.

Roger, sorry about the placement of the topic...FNG mistake.

[BigDaveZJ]

No worries man! You couldn't have posted this in Drivetrain even if ya wanted to!

[DJJordache]

One day (when I hit the lotto) I will build (actually) have Hesco build me a Bling Bling 4.7-4.9 stoker with all the bells and whistles, but who the hell knows when that might be.

if you want bling bling..... I know a company that makes a stroker crank for the 4.2L which would make for a SUPER stroker when placed in a 4.0L with that it would be easy to get to 5.0L and a little past with lots of custom parts though..... but you would have the biggest stroker on the block

[Cue-Ball]

Well you know me Jordan I do have to try and be bigger than the others.

One day that will happen, but not till LONG after I get my long arms on and you all know how long that is taking.

[AprilzWarrior]

Stroked 4. Ohhhhhs







I think when I smoke the 5.9 Ill stroke that. Thinking 402