My question is concerning track bar length with an over the axle bracket. I have Kevin's conversion which uses a WJ track bar. I also have an adjustable JKS bar. Will this adjust short enough to work? Kind of want to make sure before I have everything apart doing the swap.
I don't think it will work. I'm getting ready to find out on my rig today whether I can adjust my JKS bar all the way in and get away with this setup so I'll let you know. I'm seriously doubting that I can get away with it though.
I dunno how much more the KOR conversion needs to be shortened to work with the OTA bracket. But I remember back in the day when I got my setup I'm pretty sure Kevin talked about cutting the axle end to shorten it a bit for those wanting the TB conversion but had no lift... I dunnno if this helps or not b/c I dunno how much it needs to be shortened
I looked today and it appears that the over axle bracket is 2.5 or 3 inches closer to the frame side trackbar mount. You'll have to cut it down or buy a shorter one.
Thats kind of what I was thinking. Thanks for the responses everyone.
I know the RE trackbar I had was too long. I just cut it and shortened it.
I've gotta shorten my JKS bar too. I'm just hoping that the bends in it and whatnot will work okay with my WJ knuckle swap and big ass steering. I think it will.
What I did with mine is cut in the middle and I rotated the bends so they lined up better. Well I fawked up and made it too long still, so I ended up taking material out of the straight parts after the bends as well. So my track bar is actually 4 pieces.
I'm about to shorten mine. I'm just going to cut off some of the straight part and rethread it.
I'm not going to rethread it. One end is adjustable and the other is just a solid mount. I'm going to cut off the solid end and notch the tube and weld it all back on.
What trackbar is that? On the RE one I modified there is a "bung" welded to the end that has the threads on it. The tube is much larger then the threads on the heim joint.
My trackbar is 28". Not sure how long it was with the stock mounts though.
Last edited by nate; 08-07-2006 at 10:13 PM.
My JKS one doesn't have a bung hole. It's just threaded tube. I think when I measured my trackbar now it's something like 32 inches or so.
won't that mess up the bend?Originally Posted by Jim311
I have kevins tb conversion. the threads in the adjustable side are 1" 14 so i'm just going to cut off an inch then thread it further and see if i have to go more. This is my DD and its on road about 99% of the time so i want it to be as strong as possible, i don't want it failing at 60+ mph
I have teraflex high steer setup.
I'm also using a rubicon pitman arm so that the angle is already closer to the tb angle so the bracket i have to make can be as small as possible so i only have to shorten the tb a little bit. and beside the tap is only like 50 bucks so when i make my LA's i won't have to buy it then.
my jeep doesn't like going really fast. i'd to go fast but with the price of gas and the fact that it scares teh crap out of me. I've been fighting with some death wobble too.
Originally Posted by BLK97ZJ
How's so? The end that mounts to the axle has a straight section I'm just going to pull a small section out of. That will pull the whole axle over but shouldn't change the bend.
it sounded like u were going to cut off the bushing side and shorten it and re weld it back on. the bushing is on the upper mount side right at teh bend.
I wouldn't have had enough space to chop off the end at the bushing and it be short enough.
It was just easy for me to cut in half, but a piece of pipe inside it and weld back together. I V'ed the ends and did a butt weld and also did a few rosettes joining the trackbar to the pipe.
Heh, heh, heh...you said "bung-hole"! That was cool.Originally Posted by Jim311
If memory serves, the TBC bar we use (which is shorter than the WJ bar, but has a similar bend to it) has female threads about 4" deep. One could cut the tip off (2" or more) and tap it deeper, and just retain the same male threaded insert. Or, if you were sure you weren't going to need to adjust it more than a half-inch in the future, you could cut 2" off the male portion also, giving you about 1" of adjustment and 1" of engagement at it's longest.
JKS al;so manufactures a "cut to fit" track bar to go along with that TB OAB. It comes unwelded to the Johnny Joint so that you can center the joint, and weld the bar to it at whatever angle you prefer, rather than using the JKS 125 or 126 bar angles that are built for much less lift, typically (only good to 3.5" on the 126). I can get those for you too. If you have the TBC, then you don't need to worry about the angle, as the bar rotates around the forward/rearward bolt.
Yeah, I have the TBC, that's why I was wondering if the JKS bar for use with the conversion will adjust short enough with 5" of lift. If that bar is threaded 4" in, then I can cut and tap to make it shorter. Was just wandering if I needed to purchase the tap before I have everything apart. Thanks for the reply Kevin, I figure you know best, it was all bought from you.
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