Alas ...Here it is.. I said I would do a writeup long ago and her it is...
Parts list is this...
Small filter (I used one of those tiny ricer looking filters available at Autozone. I think they are for Valve covers or something..)
I dont have a picture but here you go..
A tool oiler..Available at most parts stores..
This one is from Pelican parts. cost about $10. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...AT284_pg14.htm
You need an air dryer..and a regulator
I hooked the two together with a 3/8 nipple about 1 1/2"
You can kind of see it in this picture..
You also need an electric pressure switch. Available at lowes as well.. I couldnt find a picture ...
The easiest way to do this is just get the regulator and the electric switch off an old compressor.. (What you need is the box that the electric cord come in to.. It will also have some wires that go out to the compressor motor.. YOu use the cord wires for the switch and the wires that go out to the compressor will go to your compressor..)
and you will need about about 6 barb fittings for the dryer and oiler and tank..(available at Lowes or the depot..)
These are close ...They are not Barb fittings but they will work if you cant find the barbs....(couldnt find a pic of a barb..
Some sort of storage tank ..Not required but at it will make your life better..
If you want to put a fitting in line then you will need a T and two more barbs and a coupler..
You will need about 50' of air hose , a spool of 12 gauge wire a relay and an assload of hose clamps...
YOu will need a compression fitting for the high pressure side and some pipe dope..I dont know what size fitting I brought the compressor line with me to lowes and matched it up..
Here is a picture of the fitting as it is being used..
The intake line is cut in this picture because I just finished rebuilding my engine and I cut the compressor loose to take it out..
Almost forgot .. YOu will need a check valve to go on the line near the tank.. this is a just in case part.. What it will do is keep the air in the tank should you blow a line.. It is not required nor really necesary.. But I used 2 of them anyway... One is in front of the dryer/ regulator the other is right in front of the tank..
YOu can see the check valve in the line in the picture I posted of the regulator up top..
Ok.. SO here goes..
Take the air line and put it on the intake side and run it toward the front of the engine .. Put a barb fitting on your oiler and put the line on it.. Then put the filter on the intake side..
On the high pressure side. Put the compression fitting on the line with a Barb fitting on it.. Hook the line to that.. If you want a check valve there to release pressure on the regulator and switch put it in the line here..
Then The hose goes into the pressure switch and regulator air dryer combo.. and out the other side.. Another barb fitting... If you want a fitting under the hood use the T and put it in line now.. Then I ran the hose into the unit body and pushed it thru the entire frame and out near the rear control arm.. Then I left some slack and drilled a hole in front of the fuel tank and ran the line into the back of my rig and hooked it to the storage tank.. (I used a Scuba tank..)
Thats about it..
If this sounds to complicated and expensive it may be.. I used alot of parts I had laying around .. (Old compressor and and air line and a bunch of the fittings..)
It is not that hard and it works like a charm..
Here I am using it...
Look how happy I am when I am cutting my ZJ....
Anyway.. I ran a wire from a switch thru the fire wall and attatched it to the switch where the electric cord used to plug in. (the Switch will operate fine with 12volts..) And the wire that used to start the electric motor on the air compressor goes to the power inlet wire on the sanden.. (Take the wire that comes out of the clutch and hit it with power .. The one that makes the clutch engage is the one you need here..) Then take the other and put and end loop on it and ground it to the engine. I used the mount bolt for the compressor.. Also visible in the picture up top..
Thats about it.. YOu flick the switch it energizes the compressor and the compressor runs till it reaches the set pressure on the regulator and then clicks off.. It will turn itself on when it gets to the low power cut in.. (Just exactly as your home compressor would..)
If you rev the engine to about 2000 the compressor will work like a charm.. and produce plenty of air for tools and tires...
I can get more pics if anyone needs them...
I know this is not the best writeup ever but it should help you get thru it...
how do you get oil into your inline oiler? when i try to fill mine the oil just sits on top of the fill hole, but if i take the bowl off then the oil flows right through the hole. its like it "hydro locks" and the oil wont go in.
I know a number of you have already done this (or a similar) mod. My question is what do you folks do for connecting to the stock compressor?
Did you just tap the compressor with a regular NPT fittings? Or did you just tap the inner part of the two metal hoses coming from the compressor?
I just used a compression fitting from the hardware store on the metal tube.
Fuego, I have some lines that I tapped for a sanden setup I was going to run, but never got it 100% done. They are just the stock 90 degree aluminum fittings that bolt to the compressor and fittings and 3/8" air hose. The suction side even has a small air tool oiler in it. If you have any interest, let me know.
Cam, thanks for the offer, but I think I'm just gonna try the compression fittings like muddtracks suggested. I've never used them before (never owned an air tool or anything like that so I've never needed to work with them), but they seem easy enough to put on. If I find a way to screw that up, I'll let you know.
I picked up everything except a tank, those compression fittings and a coupler a year or so ago and never installed anything. Hopefully my compressor hasn't seized in that time, but we'll see. I have a "self deflator" on my wheels, so since I don't have air, now is as good of a time as any to do it while I'm doing a bunch of little stuff over the winter.
Last edited by SirFuego; 12-13-2009 at 10:02 PM.
Anybody doing OBA may be interested in this link
Nice writeup. How do you regulate how much pressure goes into the tank?
Im most likely going to use something similar to this though..The pressure switch is a Condor MDR 2 with 4 ports, an adjustable pressure setting for both cut in and cut out and an unloader port. It is designed for 240V AC compressors but these type of switches will switch 12V DC without any problems. The pressure switch is set to switch the endless air on at 100PSI and cut it out at 130PSI. It has a 140 PSI pressure gauge on one port, a 165 PSI relief valve on another, blocking / mounting fitting on another and of course connection to the compressor. I mounted the pressure switch assembly to the fuel filter / pump assembly via a 6mm angled bracket.
Ok. Good to know. Thanks for posting that.
I bought my pressure switch from SB406 who had one of these lying around:
These same ones have been used in other OBA writeups, so I wouldn't hesitate to use it. Since this modification removes the factory A/C, you can wire up the pressure switch with the three wires going to the accumulator -- which are wired appropriately to the A/C push button on the dash and the compressor. I plan to do this with mine so I can turn OBA on/off with the factory switch A/C switch. It's even labeled properly
One more stupid question...
Which tubes is inlet and which is the outlet (one is 1/2" and the other is 5/8")? Mine were cut out a while ago. The drawings in the FSM sucked and didn't completely match all the bends in the tubes, so it wasn't obvious which was which. I have some other things I'm working on now, so I can't turn on the engine either to run the compressor.
Inlet would be to the bigger tube, right?
Actually, all I need to know is which tube goes to the accumulator and which goes to the condenser and I can figure it out from there.
Last edited by SirFuego; 12-15-2009 at 01:13 PM.
I'll check in the day light for you tomorrow.
i thought it might be worth adding to this thread.
on mine i added a aircooling coil to help prevent overheating the rubber hoses that alot of the guys use.
i used a copper tube and coiled it directly after the discarge pipe before going into my water seperator/dryer/oiler system. looks like this
i put this in a build thread somewhere, but i figured id drop it in here too. YMMV
Has anyone add grease to the pump, I know a guy that put 5 or 6 pumps of grease right in the intake of the pump every 6 months or so, and has put a filter on the out let side. I have seen the grease mod on the kee pumps, but it is differnt then the pump we have, and cant be used in the same way.
And for a pressure switch, I am use one removed from a home compressor, it work great, and with the tank I wired it into the fuse block on a fuse, and let the switch shut the pump off when it gets to 125psi. I can run a 3/8s impact on it and it work great.
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