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I wouldnt use them. I would get something that is at least hub centric and fits your bolt pattern. not all 3 or 4. And after reading the reviews on the spidertrax wheel spacers, there is no other way to go. So that is what i will be ordering here within the next month.
I searched for 5/8 spacers but couldn't source any, so I went with 3/4" spacers from eBay. The pair was $40 shipped (he combines shipping). Seller is Kratter.
Here is a link to the spacers: eBay 3/4" Spacers
They fit nice and tight on the bolt pattern. I have no complaints/concerns.
Here's some info for you guys concerned about the ARP wheel studs being a little too big. We have a lathe at the shop that's a PITA to setup. So I searched for other wheel studs that would be a bit smaller, but would still give you the extended length.
Here is the ARP 100-7703 specs:I found the Moroso 46180 wheel studs. The specs are:
- Size - 1/2"-20 by 3" long
- .625'' Knurl Wheel Studs
I used a press to get them installed, but they went in nicely.
- Size: 1/2"-20 by 2 7/8" press-in studs
- .615" knurl and quick start dog end
what kind of press do you guys use to get the studs into place. any links to a place where i can buy one?
ive been trying the impact wrench and washer trick but it just chews up my threads.
If you have the shafts out, you could throw it in a vice with a deep socket that will fit over the studs.
Just got my cover from RuffStuff. Beef.
Shipped fast, I know the lip won't ever peel, and Dan has some of the best customer service in the business.
hey greenhunter, the long tabs I got for my upper control arms are drilled out too big for my rubicon express superflex joints, did you ask Dan at ruff stuff to drill 'em smaller?
How much? I need one too!
Egg, I didn't have any trouble with my upper tabs. The way they came, they fit just fine with the superflex adj. arms and bolts that I'm using. You could weld some thick washers with the correct hole size onto the outside of the tabs and use some longer bolts, a simple two-dollar fix.
Grandmaster, I paid $130 shipped to my door with countersunk holes and a drainplug, but I had a discount code from an earlier refund snafu that he took care of promptly. Full price for the assembled one would run ~$150 shipped, but if you want to save some money and know how to weld, you could get the unassembled kit and burn it together yourself. Also, I think the ring-thickness of the welded one is a typo on the website, mine's not 1/2". 3/8" all around isn't anything to scoff at, though, as I doubt i'll ever damage it beyond marring the surface a little.
Guys I am also a RuffStuff dealer and have some great pricing options worked out with Dan (the owner of RSS), so let me know if you need anything.
Dirk
Its been a while sence ive read through the entire thread, but i dont remember reading anything about the flange. What have people been using to adapt the flange for the driveshaft??
How did you connect the brake lines from the 8.8 to the zj.
What are some good brake combos for a disk set up?
Is a lock rite reliable or should i go with the detroit? i just need some feed back so i can build my axle right.
you can use the calipers and brake lines from the d35 to go on the 8.8 so you dont really need to worry about that. Lockrite is more of a lunch box locker, probably a bit better for the street. I would go with a detroit if its just for wheelin.
Even better, im short on money so the cheaper the better. Thanks
i ordered mine from shaftmasters.... didn't come with the 4 bolts. ended up paying 3.50 a bolt at a ford dealership.
for the flange, http://www.alljeep.com/oscommerce/pr...ucts_id=167208
they have the moroso wheel studs too, for using aluminum ebay spacer
http://www.alljeep.com/oscommerce/pr...ducts_id=69522
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