This problem seems more common than I thought, so I figured I'd help some people out who need a visual before they get to working on it. Any questions or revisions just post. I happened to have a tranny that was blown so that is why it's on the ground. You do NOT need to remove it from the vehicle to do this procedure. If you have spare cash, I recommend changing the governor pressure sensor and solenoid as well since you need to remove them for this repair and they have a high failure rate. edit: double and triple check you ordered the proper gov sensor/solenoid prior to starting this repair if you plan to replace them. There are atleast two different types.
For those with access to a DRB scanner, PM me your e-mail address for the solenoid test procedure.
EDIT: Before attempting this repair check ALL fuses in the PDC and under the dash. Erroneous fault codes can be set due to an open or missing fuse.
Here's my multipurpose workshop:
Start by removing the transmission pan. I'll assume you know how to do that. Next remove the filter (it is held on by two torx bolts. I believe T25.) More fluid will come out so have your drain pan under the transmission still.
This is what you should see (minus mud, grass, and maybe some bugs that I have.)
Next you want to remove the governor body which is pictured above. There are four 11mm bolts, and two T25 bolts that need to be removed. You can let it hang there but that is bad practice, so unplug the sensor and solenoid and get it all out of your way.
If you are changing them, you need to remove the retainer plate as shown below:
On this 1999 42re, the retainer plate simply slides off, on later models it seems they redesigned the plate and it actually holds both the sensor and solenoid in and can take a bit of wiggling to remove it. Once it's off, on the later models you can simply pull both the sensor and the solenoid straight out. On earlier models, the solenoid has a clip holding it in which must be removed first.
The install procedure is the reverse, DO NOT FORGET THAT CLIP. It's best to work the retainer plate back on while the governor body is out, it can be a bit tricky, have patience. Do not install the governor body back in the transmission yet.
Back to the overdrive/torque converter clutch solenoid..If you look, you now have easy access to it. I found it easier to unplug it first. Use a small screwdriver to gently release the connector. Then carefully cut the wire ties. The unit is held on with three T25 bolts. Remove them.
You should now have something like this:
Most all the new overdrive/tcc solenoids come with new wiring and is recommended that you use it. This is a much more complicated procedure that involves removing the throttle body. When I did mine, I used the stock wiring.
Last is just to reverse all these procedures, making sure everything is nice and tight. The bolts have their way of working themselves out and falling into the pan if you leave them lose. Thrown on a new filter, put the pan back on, and fill it up with fresh fluid. I reset the computer before driving it, (disconnect the positive battery cable and turn the key to on. 15-30 min later connect the cable and start 'er up.)
Last edited by flexxthese; 02-03-2010 at 12:07 PM.
awsome write up thats a ton of help.
Glad I could help. It's a relatively simple job, just very messy so have some rags handy.
where do you get the solenoids at besides the dealership?
I haven't had much luck at local stores but you could try..If you have an autozone,advance auto in your area. Or some people have had good luck with www.transmissionpartsusa.com/ just make sure you get the proper sensors for your year. As said, one of them is different if you have a newer or older 42re (I think 200+ is a different style.
This write up is EXACTLY what I needed. One question, what tranny problems were you having? I am having a PO743 (Torque converter clutch) code, and 3-4 upshift solenoid A. I can put it in D, it drives in 3rd gear, but i can downshift to 2nd manually, and slam it into first from neutral at a stop.
Any info will help, im so close to figuring out my tranny problems
You're transmission is running in "limp mode." When a transmission fault code is thrown the TCM safeguards the transmission, disabling 1st and OD to prevent further damage. aka, you don't want to force it into 1st haha.
The TCC and 3-4 shift solenoid are the same part so with those codes, it seems like it's pointing to you neeeding to replace it. Before you do, check ALL the fuses. An open fuse can display erroneous codes. If you have access to some time and a DRB scan tool, PM me and I'll shoot you a PDF file of a dealer troubleshooting guide to check the sensors. It's up to you wether you want to change the harness as well. It will come with the new solenoid pack but it's a bitch to change. You'll need to drop the valve body. Seeing as your only throwing codes for the solenoid pack, I'd take a gamble and assume your wiring is okay but it's up to you.
If you haven't already, I'd suggest changing the governor pressure sensor/solenoid as well since they are prone to failure and it will be a little preventive maintenance while you have the pan down. Do yourself a favor and make sure the bolts are tight, they like to work themselves loose.
My problems are way off the charts and don't really follow this thread. While I was throwing just about every transmission fault code, changing the entire internal wiring and every sensor didn't fix it. I'm still getting the codes. Next is the external harness leading to the PCM, changing the PCM (WJs don't have a seaprate TCM, its internal to the PCM) or burning it to the ground. All this after pulling someone free from the mud, I lost neutral and reverse...swapped trannys and now i'm having these problems.
Last edited by flexxthese; 02-22-2010 at 04:07 PM.
I bought an o/d solenoid for my 97 42re and have pulled the pan and filter. Found your post and it is very informative. If you don't replace the wiring harness do you just splice the wires with regular but connectors or do you need a better connections. I was planning on replacing the entire harness but can see that it will be chore.
My tranny is not acting up i just showed a code 740 tcc solenoid circiut and after checking all my fuses and talking to mechanic I hope this is the fix.
Do you think I should replace entire harness or splice it in and if I decide to drop valve body can you give me some pointers on doing that.
Thanks in advance
Take a look with the pan off and see how the harness is routed, I am not sure on your year RE how it routes through everything. I have seen one in a dakota that you did not need to drop the valve body to replace it so you may be in luck. On my 99 and 02 however it routes right under the vb so it was too much of a headache to worry about it.
If you don't replace the harness all you do is unplug it at the solenoid pack and plug in the replacement and you're done. No splicing, just simple clips to plug in.
If I were you and you've never dropped a valve body before, I wouldn't start now haha. It's do able, and I can give you some basics but there is a lot to remove, easy things to break, and parts that need to be put back together specific ways. It isn't a simple unbolt drop and you're done unfortunetly. I'd hate to have you tackle the project and get in over your head and be out a transmission. Let me know and i'll see what I can type up if you decide.
If changing the solenoid doesn't work, reply here and keep in touch. In the coming week or two I will be doing another writeup regarding the external harness. Then after that, I may (but I hope not) do yet a different writeup all associated to the same problem hah. Start with the solenoid though, a fuse or the solenoid pack is usually the culprit.
If you're in the middle of it and run into a question just reply here, I get instant notifications on my blackberry and don't really sleep at all, so I should be able to respond promptly.
I'm gonna tackle this tommorrow, I have dropped many valve bodies in old torqueflites and know the general steps just don't know about the shift rod and any other internal parts that will need to be disconnected.
Any tips would be helpful I sure don't want to break anything.
Sorry, not sure if you started already, i have been busy working on my own rig. Here's some basics. I don't take any responsibility for forgetting anything so just use it as a general guide:
remove throttle lever and shift linkage (11mm?)
unplug and remove neutral safety switch (1" socket?)
ten 11mm bolts for the throttle body (remember where each bolt goes! theres longer and shorter ones, there's some springs under the accumulator on the drivers side so its up to you if you want to remove those bolts last)
as your lowering the valve body push the electrical connector from outside the transmission case, and work it out along with the shift lever. the lever connects to the park sprag so don't brake anything here. i THINK you just pull it forward and it should pop out. It should be on like, a ball and socket type deal.
The valve body should be out, hopefully it didn't hit you in the face.
Got it done today, decided to drop valve body and replace all wiring to overdrive solenoid. Dropping the v-body was easier than I anticipated. I removed shift and kickdown linkage from outside tranny case, removed the neutral safety switch and unplugged the wiring harness from connection and then removed(10) 11mm bolts holding v-body in and like you said just push down on the electric connection and work the valve body down until you can get to the shifter arm that is connected to the v-body. I pulled on it a little and it didn't seem like it wanted to pull out very easy and then I noticed an e-clip that holds the rod to the v-body, i used a pair of needle nose and removed that e-clip and the rod came free from the v-body so I actually left the rod in the trans. Once I had v-body on work bench I removed the governor pressure wiring and the solenoid bracket and then was able to remove the (3) t-25 torx screws holding the overdrive solenoid on. Installed new solenoid and put everything back together, it was a little tricky getting that e-clip back on the shift rod because there is not alot of room, but I pushed the v-body back up in the case and started a couple of the bolts just a few turns so the v-body was not seated all the way up in the trans. this way it was a little easier to get that e-clip back on, once I had clip in place I pushed the v-body up flush and installed the rest of the bolts. Put in new filter and gasket and refilled tranny with 5 1/2 qts.
I drove it a least 15 miles up to 80 mph and it seems to be o.k.
Like I said before I was not felling any sign of tranny troubles, only had a check engine light with code 740 tcc circuit malfunction. i erased code and it has not come back on so maybe I got it.
Thanks for the help
Hey, I just got my new TCC OD solenoid thing in the mail today. I have the pan dropped, and the TCC is off, but the wiring is different than the one that I got in the mail. Its a little newer it looks like, and it seems as if I might have to take the valve body off. Anybody have a writeup for this? Im having trouble.
EDIT: here are some pictures...
Last edited by MoonyJohn; 03-18-2010 at 03:58 PM.
Great write-up, I recently put a 2000 Tranny in my 99 WJ and I getting the following: O/D off and the Trans Over Temp. I checked the fluid temp and it is okay so I suppect that it is the Goverenor Pressure Sensor but I read in another forum that I had to replace the wiring, O/D solenoid, Gov. Pressure Sensor & Solenoid with my 99 WJ parts because the 2000 sensor cannot communicate with the 99 PCM. Is this true or I can just replace the 2000 Gov. Pressure Sensor (Square 4-pin connector)?? Anyone experienced this problem
I would like to know the answer to this as well. I pulled the tranny out of a 2001 wj and put in my 99 wj, and I am getting the same exact symptom. od light and then trans temp light. I used the harness that was on my original transmission/engine and not the one that came with my "used/new" tranny as it had California emissions and I didn't know what the computer would do with all those extra o2 sensor readings.
I did notice that one of my connectors, the one by the shift linkage has a bare wire on it that goes into the socket plug. I may try and fiddle with the wiring some first before I go to replacing sensors, but I figure it's worth bringing this thread back to life!
Thanks for any info you all can give me!
It's nice to see someone relatively new the the site offering some actual tech.
holy big picture batman!!!!
I was actually looking at the sensors that are on the outside of the transmission. One is a three prong sensor by the shift linkage, and it has two bare wires where the insulation is torn but it looks like it goes into the socket still. Also, the three prong plug can plug in 2 ways...so does it matter which way it goes? I also wish I had a schematic of the grounds so I can make sure they are all attached in the correct locations since this was a complete swap.
Is there any way to test to see if I am getting power/signal to the prongs on a plug to make sure the wire is not pulled out of the socket?
quick reply of my thoughts after doing some looking:
At the above sites, I noticed two different sensor things like you posted a few post above. 53392c(96-99) 53392d (2000+) are for different year model tranny's. Now, I put a 2001 tranny in my 99 so I'm guessing either my 99 pcm is having trouble talking to those sensors or I need to swap the sensors from my 99 into the 2001
any advice here?
Sorry I cannot help, Van Damme.
well I'm not new around here, but it's weird to see all the guys that made this site either put their projects on the back burner or they are wheeling their shit cause they are happy with the setup finally. Eitherway...I have always enjoyed this site because of the people on here and their attitudes. Also, the advice on here was out of the norm, or actually from experience unlike the other sites i'm on. One day I hope to make it to a grand slam event and meet some of you people!
awesome, thanks for the writeup, I've lost my OD a couple times this week, gonna see if this is the solution
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