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Pretty sure Waggy 44's are LP - no?
thats correct. waggy's are low pinion.
thanks for the heads up..
g-
As far as tools go, you'll need the 4 prong hub socket to remove/install the front hub locknuts. Are you keeping the waggy knuckles or going to chevy flattops for highsteer? Either way, it might be advisable to replace the balljoints if they have not been replaced recently. You'll need the specialty balljoint spanner tool.
As for the Dutchman shafts in the rear, have you thought about going up to 33 spline shafts? If you're already going to the expense of new shafts, you might as well make the upgrade worth it. I know superior used to make 33 spliners for d44s, but I'm not sure if Dutchman does. You'd also have to ask if Detroit makes d44 lockers with 33 spline side gears. ARB has made them in the past, so I would think Detroit might. The only other variable would be sourcing inner axle seals and outer bearings, which Dutchman could probably help you with if the going 33 spline is possible. Just something to think about.
Perfect, this was exactly the kind of info I was looking for. I'll probably get new ball joints though. http://www.bjsoffroad.com/cartgenie/...pid=510&cid=13
The thing with the Wagoneer rear axle is it's shorter than the front in length. The front axle is like 62 1/2" and the rear is 58". Also the it's offset a little to one side, don't remember which though. I haven't been able to find waggy rear shafts anywhere online except for RockZJ's build thread where he used the Dutchman shafts. That would be a great upgrade if I can find someone that does it.
Last edited by ZJones; 06-19-2009 at 03:29 PM.
Superior sells a super dana 44 kit that has an optional 33 spline Detroit or ARB locker. So the locker is out there I would just need to find the correct shafts.
Dutchman's website is www.dutchmanms.com
They don't list everything on their website, so you will probably need to call and ask.
Update:
Picked up the waggy 44's today from the seller for $350. Holy crap, the front axle is so heavy and being 100+ degrees out didn't help much either. Well here they are sitting in the back of my jeep. They're gunna stay there till I can get some help to take them out.
The plan is still the same.
TnTcustoms.com
Wagoneer Dana 44 Truss
Upper Control Arm Mount (P)
HD Lower Coil Mounts
Upper Control Arm Mount (D)
Factory Track Bar Mount
HD Lower Control Arm Mounts
bjsoffroad.com
Detroit Lockers
4.56's w/ Master Installs
Rotor/Hub Assemblies
Warn Locking Hubs
Wheel Bearing Kits
Rear Axle Bearings and Seals Kits
Ball Joint Kits
Spindle Bearing Kits
ClaytonOffroad.com
Rear Long Arms
Bilstein Shocks
Coil Springs
Axle Bracket Kit
Track Bar
Dutchmanms.com
Custom Chromoly Shafts
eastcoastgearsupply.com
Alloy USA Chromoly Shafts
Solidaxle.com
Dana 44 Solid Diff Covers
tsmmfg.com
Disc Brake Conversion with Calipers
TirePackage.com
5 BFG KM2’s
Gangsta!
G-
No joke on the weight. It took 3 of us to lift a Ford D44 into my brothers van.
does the axle shaft kit come with U-joints? I see no mention of u-joints in your post so I just wanted to verify. I know how heavy those damn 44's are, I pulled mine from a waggy solo and was able to get it with leaf springs and steering attatched into a 1 wheeled wheelbarrow at the pick n pull by myself. Sure it fell over a few times but lol...I had to call my dad to get it loaded though.
Yeah the Alloy kit comes with the U-joints installed. Thanks for looking through the list, I want to make sure I'm not missing anything.
Dont forget to include new wheels to match your new bolt pattern.
Also, why not step up the gearing to 4.88?
D44's are light. (compared to a 60 and 14b).
Talk to my buddy Andrew for shafts and your hydro ram. Telll him Bobo sent you. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=718514
And he is local
Update:
Got the axles unloaded out of my jeep, it's a lot easier when you have 4 people helping you.
Started tearing down the front axle. Took the calipers off, they were stuck to the rotors. Removed an old bracket, the tierod then the diff cover and drained the little amount of fluid that was in there and holy crap did it stink. Pulled the hub cap off, removed all the internals from the hub (not as easy as it sounds) then pulled the rotor, backing plate, spindle, and shaft. I wanted to get the knuckle off but I didn't have anything to pry it off with so I'll have to wait to do that.
I think I got a lot done considering I had no idea what to expect. I had no clue how to remove the rotor so I followed a write up to get an idea.
I also had to go buy some tools to get things apart.
4 prong axle socket (took me awhile to find it but I did)
1-5/16 Socket
1-1/8 Wrench
3/4" Drive Wrench (this wrench is huge)
1/2" Breaker Bar
Small Pick set
Some pictures from today.
That's all the gear fluid that came out.
Stupid knuckle.
Both my axles and my mess.
I used a pallet jack to move the axle around and to jack it up whenever I needed to. Worked really well.
All the crap that went to the dumpster, rotor/hub assembly, both calipers, bent tierod, track bar, diff cover, old bracket that was left over from before, and passenger axle shaft.
I'll get this side pulled off tomorrow and hopefully get the gears and carrier out as well.
Remember when I told you to add some budget for tools?
Save the axle shafts
And you threw out the calipers also? Most parts stores have a core charge on calipers. You are just burning money by throwing your old ones out.
I'm sure someone could find a use for those hubs and diff cover- no need to be wasteful.
No worries I can still get all of it back.
This thing is seriously pissing me off. I'm almost ready to take it to a shop to have them take the driver side apart. I can't get the outter spindle lock nut to budge at all.
Lefty Loosey!
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