I've been reading these forums for a while; I figured it was time I formally introduce myself. Hi I'm Cody.
My first Grand was a 1996 4.0L Laredo that I purchased before I even had my drivers license. I started that one by putting a 4.6L stroker in it and installing a Rubicon Express 4.5" short arm lift.
She will always be my first love, but I like most here had my eye on something a little bit er bigger. So the opportunity presented itself to buy a 5.9 that was almost exactly where I envisioned mine being in a few years; right lift, tires, bumper, winch etc.. I decided to go for it.
So here she is: The Polar Bear. It has a 6” Clayton Long Arm lift, NP 242, BF Goodrich 33” Mud Terrains, steel front bumper, Warn 9000 lb winch, dual battery setup and had a hi lift but some son of a bitch stole it off the roof rack about a week ago.
At the moment it has the stock LP 30 up front with CVs and the 44 aluminum in the rear. I have a HP 30 in my garage that I’m doing the WJ swap on and adding 4.56s. I’m on the lookout for an 8.8 to put a locker in for the rear.
So these are my Jeeps and that’s my project at the moment.
looks clean, hack those fenders up a bit and throw on some 35's
I thought Dave was the polar bear
Nice Jeep, is the front bumper and roof rack custom built?
looks almost like my niner, do you have any wheel spacers for your rims?? and what springs are you running??
Colorado5.9 runs 5.9 wheels on TNT LA's and 35's, I think he runs spacers but more than 1".
Alright I need a bit of advice from those who have done axle swaps. I swear I've changed my mind a dozen times on what front axle to install. I've got a HP30 with the vacuum disconnect that I've bought some of the parts to do the WJ swap on, but I'm wondering if since I'm starting from scratch if I am just wasting money. Should I keep down this track or just say screw it and try and find a HP44 (that TNT weld on truss kit looks pretty fancy)? I'm not made of money, I'm a student, so money is an issue. Oh and the biggest I figure I'll ever run is 35s.
Advantages of each, this is almost just for myself
Currently have it
bolts right in
The biggest disadvantage I can think of to the 44 is it's not the right width? Does anyone have a decent figure about how much approximately building a 44 costs.
Sorry I know this has been discussed to death but I don't know that much about it.
My brother is building up a Ford D44 for a ranger SAS. He has put in about $1200 in the axle, and that includes 5.13 gears with install kit, ARB air locker, brakes, and other stuff. But he found good deals on some of the parts. So it would probably cost around $1600 without chromy shafts. But it will still be stronger than a D30. That being said, I'm putting in a HP30 in my 5.9 with 33's.
Another grand on niner wheels, sweet.
What's wrong with the D30 now? I'd just keep it, doesn't look like you wheel much/hard.
I'm sure this will be labeled JU worthy but I'll post it anyways. I built a custom box out of MDF for my sub. It has a compartment on top for storing my tow strap, tow hitch and other junk and is bolted down using the old spare tire bolt.
Good idea, and looks good. How does it sound, there isnt much room for air to circulate.
It sounds fine for what I use it for, but I'm content with keeping the stock Infinity system for the moment it sounds nice enough for me just needed more bass. I need to put carpet on the bottom of the compartment though, I can hear shit in it rattling when I crank it up.
A little update. I found a deal on Rubicon 44's front and rear with chromoly shafts, 4.88 gears, rock crusher diff covers and vanco dual piston calipers. So today I took out the rear 44a and cut the Clayton truss off to weld on the new axle. I'll post some pictures up soon.
Question, I've welded on axles before, but never a truss and I was told to be very careful when welding it on so as not to warp or bend the housing. What precautions should I take and what advice do you guys have?
Last edited by JBN311; 11-02-2008 at 03:12 PM. Reason: forgot something
thats a damn clean setup, I've got to build a box that actually hugs the wall like that for my MTX. Damn thing weighs 60lbs =P
Got the new axles today! Started cutting off the upper control arm brackets but didn't make it very far before dark. Those things are a bitch to cut off when all you have is a grinder.
P.S. I'm working out of my trailer because my landlord is an ass-hat and won't even let me rotate my tires on the property.
So a little update. I finished installing the TJ 44's and have since drove it 500 miles up to Reno for winter break. Couple of things, my speedo reads 90 mph at 70, need to fix that and I have some lovely drive line vibrations at 50.
1. How long are XJ and TJ front drive shafts? I need to get the current one shortened and the shop wants $115 to do it.
2. Is $200 reasonable to cut the rear and insert a slip joint (Spline?). It already has a double cardan at the transfer case but still uses the slip yoke?? The previous owner was on crack. I'm planning on doing the Hack N' Tap
3. Where do you get affordable speedo gears. I need a 41 tooth for 33" tires and 4.88 and the only ones I've found are around $100!!!!
The Axle Swap
Cut the brackets off the old 44a and welded them on the new one.
Painted it with POR 15. They weren't joking about not getting this on your skin, the bristles on the paint brush accidentally flicked some on my face; I spent four days explaining why I had black shit on my face and couldn't get it off.
The front was a lot easier, just cleaned it up and painted it.
U-Turn Steering installed.
The compressors for the lockers sit under the second battery tray. I used the tray they were originally mounted on in the Rubicon and bent and cut it up to fit.
After all this work my favorite part about the axles are the Vanco dual piston calipers. Damn it now my Jeep has Ford parts on it. This thing stops better than a stock grand! Thats all for now.
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