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slo mo i would also like to see pics i think i pmed you about it once. since then i saw a guy in san louis obispo who had a wj on 40's and he said the holes were on the top where the two pads are one in each. if i remember right. i wish had pics but my camera craped out on the way home. that wj was a bad mama jama. i might have pics of it pre 40's at moon rocks.
Last edited by vinny4130; 02-18-2008 at 09:34 PM. Reason: i needed an "s"
Disclaimer. This is what worked for me. I take no responsibility for your actions or consequences there-of if you try to do this modification.
I don't get it
soon to be helpful thanks.
Is hydraulic assist still effective if you don't get a new pump to create higher pressures?
Yes. The ram is giving you the extra push/pull on your tierod. Sure a HP pump would certainly help but I don't feel its necessary.
My only complaint with the stock pump is the lag at low RPM.
I am by no means an expert on hydro assist though.
The top hole is the tricky one. You need 2 taps in order to do it right.
The box is essentially a mirror image of a Toyota IFS box.
Brett
those pics are of a wj box right ??? are you running hydro assist now?, how does it work with the ports drilled in the locations in the pics ???
This is the article that I went by.http://www.wildyoats.com/hydraulic_assist_tech.htm
Thanks for the information. When I get the reman gearbox in the mail, I'm going to do those mods for higher pressures (http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.co...rsteering.html) and now since I'm pretty much convinced it's worth the effort, I'll drill and tap it for hydraulic assist. Just one more question for you though. Do you have any pictures or specs on the ram/lines part of the hydraulic assist? I have access to a crimping tool where I can make my own lines, but I wasn't sure what size ram to buy, how to mount it, or what size lines to use. All I know is I have a large selection of JIC fittings and hydraulic hose.
Ram was just a utility ram. 1" x 6" stroke. I limited my steering so I could still stuff my 39s at full lock. An 8" ram would probably be better but I think a 7" ram would be perfect, although hard to find unless custom.
Line size?..... Don't remember.
I can post a pic of my ram tonight. It might get you a basic idea of how to do it. My trackbar mount is higher too so it gave me lots of room for the ram.
Brett
Cool man, thanks. Pictures are very helpful when it comes to stuff like this. I have to see what kind of space I have to work with in terms of where to mount things like an 8" ram.
I've been checking out that link and want to know how deep you went with the bit on the top section, as to avoid drilling into the other passage. And why did you need 2 taps? 1/4NPT for both holes...or are you suggesting a starting tap and a bottoming tap?
Last edited by death-mobile; 03-09-2008 at 06:52 AM. Reason: woops
For that top hole you need to only go until you're at the bottom of the cross passage. You need a "starter tap" and a "finishing tap". The hole is fairly shallow so you need to start it with a new tap and then use a ground down tap to get the depth you need for your fitting. Make sense? Just be careful you don't force the "short tap" too far because you can break out the edges of the hole. Remember the box is cast.
Brett
Ugg. Cast...
Did you modify a tap or just use a 1/4NPT starting and bottoming? I guess once I have the box apart, I will more understand what you are talking about. I can't help but get nervous drilling into something you can only drill so far into. The point of entry is a pretty round about suggestion, so I'm guessing in that general area is good enough.
One more question for ya. What size fitting did you use. The box end is obviously 1/4NPT, but what did you use for the hose ends? -4 JIC?
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